Cambodia Travel Guide

Where the ancient world collides with everyday chaos

Cambodia gets under your skin in that way only certain places do. One minute you’re watching sunrise at Angkor Wat, the next you’re slurping noodles on a plastic stool as scooters zip by. It’s raw, moving and unforgettable.

We’ve packed the magic, the mess and the must-knows into this in-depth Cambodia travel guide.

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What to expect from Cambodia

Yes, Angkor Wat really is as magical as the guidebooks say and watching the sunrise behind those ancient towers is well deserving of its spot on your bucket list. But if you think that’s all Cambodia has to offer, you’re missing the best parts.

This country is full of contrasts.

One minute you’re strolling through river towns that have their own slow pace, the next you’re in cities that don’t stop moving. You’ll climb misty mountains, walk through dense jungle, and swing in hammocks on peaceful islands. Then bounce between rooftop cocktail bars and sobering visits to the Killing Fields.

There’s something here for all types of travellers. For luxury hotels and food you recognise, the major hubs of Siem Reap, Phnom Penh and Battambang have plenty of choice. Or, you can step off the beaten path and see parts of the country that get very few visitors.

Cambodia can feel chaotic, moving, even confronting. But the more time you spend here and the more you get to know the resilience of its people, the more you’ll realise this is a country that will stay with you forever. We’ve spent 5 weeks exploring as much of the country as possible, and know we’ll be back before long.

So come for the temples. But stay for everything else.

Not sure where to start? Check out our Cambodia itinerary guides:

Ultimate 1 Week Cambodia Itinerary [Unmissable Highlights]

Complete 2 Week Cambodia Itinerary: Temples, Islands, Nature

Key facts

Best time to visit

November-March

Currency

Dual currency: Cambodian riels (KHR) and US dollars (USD)

Lowest ATM fees

• Bred Bank, Vattanac, ACLEDA, and Canadia
• Expect to pay $4-6 per transaction
• Avoid ATMs that only give $100 bills as they’re very hard to break

Electricity Sockets

230V / 50Hz

Types A, C, G

Language

Khmer (English isn’t common outside of touristy areas)

Helpful phrases

• Hello (informal): Susadei (soos-a-dai)
• Thank you: Arkun (ar-koon)
• Goodbye: Leahaey (lee-hi)
• Excuse me/sorry: Som dtoh (som-toe)
• Yes: Bah (ba) for male or Jah (chaa) for female
• No: Ot teh (ot-tei)
• How much?: Bo man (bow-man)
• 1: Muy , 2: Pii, 3: Bai, 4: Buhn, 5: Phrum

When to visit Cambodia

Cambodia has a fairly simple weather system with two distinct seasons: wet season and dry season. The rainy period starts in May and is at its heaviest in August and September.

Best Time to Visit: “Cool” & Dry

Mid-November – February

Highs: 33°C (92°F), Lows: 22°C (72°F)

Average rainfall: 25mm (1″)

Wet Shoulder Season

October- Mid-November

Highs: 31°C (88°F), Lows: 24°C (75°F)

Average rainfall: 109 mm (4.3″)

Sticky Shoulder Season

March – April

Highs: 35°C (95°F), Lows: 25°C (77°F)

Average rainfall: 81 mm (3.2″)

Wet Season

May – September

Highs: 32°C (90°F). Lows: 24°C (75°F)

Average rainfall: 263 mm (10.4″)

Like almost everywhere, climate change is shifting the start/end of seasons pretty dramatically year to year. So if you travel right at the start or end of a ‘traditional season’, it’s best to stay flexible in case the weather’s not what you were expecting.

Best: Mid Nov-Feb (“Cool” Dry Season)

The best time to visit Cambodia is just after wet season (mid November to February). All the fields are lush and green, and it’s as cool as it’s ever going to get. Any rain interruptions should be minimal. Don’t get us wrong, it’s never truly “cool”, certainly not for anyone from Northern Europe. But it’s manageable for exploring the temples of Angkor Wat or hiking in the jungle while also being hot enough to enjoy your hotel pool or the beaches.

March-May (Sticky Shoulder Season)

This is still part of dry season but the temperatures and humidity seriously ramp up in March and April. It becomes unbearably hot between 10am and 4pm and not hugely better outside of that. We’d highly recommend avoiding this time of year, if possible, as it makes exploring really tough unless you’re already used to that kind of heat. The only upside is that the tourist sites get very quiet in the middle of the day if you can handle it.

May-September (Wet Season)

Or “green season” as the Cambodians like to call it. The heat is interrupted with intense downpours, some of which can last for hours but they rarely last all day. You can still explore in the mornings and dodge the weather but it makes it much harder and you need to be pretty flexible. Jungle treks can become impassable due to rising water levels and some places shut down entirely. It’s a good time to get amazing deals on nice hotels though.

October-Mid November (Wet Shoulder Season)

October into November is when the rain starts to ease up, though it’s hard to predict how wet or dry this time of year might be due to shifting weather patterns. So you could get lucky or you could get extremely wet. You’ll get the benefit of some cheaper hotel prices and quieter sites, but you’ll be rolling the dice on the rain and the jungles might still be too wet to hike through.

Top places to visit in Cambodia

Siem Reap and Phnom Penh are the top spots on most people’s Cambodia itinerary, but if you have the time, we’d really recommend exploring further. Honestly, we didn’t completely love Cambodia the first time we came as we mostly stuck to the major cities but our second trip took us much more off the beaten path and totally changed our thinking.

Siem Reap

Going to Cambodia and not seeing Angkor Wat would be like going to Paris and not seeing the Eiffel Tower. Sure, it’s busy but it’s also a “Wonder of the World” for a reason and even if you only have a passing interest in historic buildings, it’s worth at least a morning of your trip.

Beyond the obvious, Siem Reap has a full range of activities from ATV driving to zip lines to cooking classes to cultural tours. As the centre for tourism in Cambodia, you’ll find the widest range of accommodation, food, tours, cafes, and activity options here.

Phnom Penh

The capital of Cambodia and the second most popular place to visit for a couple of reasons:

Firstly, many flights arrive in Phnom Penh.

Secondly, the monuments to Cambodia’s recent past are located nearby. It’s impossible to truly understand Cambodia without learning about what happened during the Khmer Rouge regime and the resulting civil war. It’s a very upsetting history and difficult to talk about, but you will appreciate the resilience of the Cambodian people all the more for it.

There’s also the gorgeous Royal Palace and some beautiful temples, plus a bustling nightlife scene. However, you need to be aware of your surrounding when you’re exploring (especially at night) as it’s the home to some of the more unsavoury tourist activities in Cambodia.

Battambang

Battambang is the fun artsy sibling that feels very different to Cambodia’s other big cities. It’s famous for the bamboo train and an incredible Bat Cave where millions of bats come streaming out of and into the sky at sunset. There’s some fascinating cultural sights, beautiful street art and interesting architecture too, if that’s your thing.

Kampot

Most famous for producing world-class pepper, Kampot also offers some beautiful river kayaking and the nearby Preah Monivor Bokong National Park for seeing wildlife and hiking.

Kep

Chill out by the beach and eat some famous pepper crab. Kep has a much more chilled vibe than many other cities and doesn’t have the nightlife of the islands. It’s perfect for those who want a little beach and sun without the drinks and parties.

Kep is also the gateway to Koh Tonsay, a tiny island where you can relax fully off grid.

Southern Islands (Koh Rong)

Some of the most beautiful beaches in the world are in Cambodia with turquoise water, coconuts, and chilled out days. Or parties, drinking, and backpackers. The southern islands have both sides of Southeast Asia’s island life, so be very careful where you choose to stay so you get the vibe you’re after.

Kratie / Kracheh

One of the few places in the world where you can see wild river dolphins. Irrawaddy dolphins to be precise. There isn’t a whole lot else here but the dolphins make it worth a small detour for us… even if they’re insanely difficult to photograph!

Mondulkiri

Deep jungle, elephants, langurs, gibbons, waterfalls, and birds – Mondulkiri is a nature lover’s paradise in the eastern mountains of Cambodia. If you want to see the elephants, Elephant Valley Project is the only “sanctuary” we know to be ethical in the area.

Top things to do in Cambodia

There’s something here for pretty much everyone. But these are some of the best things to do in Cambodia that you don’t want to miss when you visit:

1. Explore the temples of Angkor Wat (and beyond)

The most obvious, but still, you really shouldn’t miss going to see one of the most amazing temple complexes on Earth. It’s an absolutely huge area with minimal shade so make sure to plan ahead and drink plenty of water. You can get around by cycling or driving yourself (bike, scooter, or tuktuk) or hire a local driver to wait for you between stops.

Don’t just stick to Angkor Wat either – there are so many temples you can see in Siem Reap and further afield. Some are well preserved and others are still being reclaimed by the jungle.

2. Visit the Killing Fields and S21 Prison

It feels weird recommending the site of genocide and a brutal prison as somewhere to visit, but Cambodia’s recent past is as important as it is horrifying. You’ll leave feeling drained but as time goes on you’ll be glad you went. It will help you understand the pain behind the smiles and the incredible resilience of the Cambodian people.

3. Meet Hero Rats at APOPO Visitor Centre

One of the coolest things to do in Cambodia is learn about the landmine detecting giant rats (aka Hero Rats!) who are helping to clear dangerous unexploded ordinance from Cambodia’s countryside. Much of the country is still riddled with landmines and cluster bombs and these hero rats make clearing it much faster. Plus they’re hella cute.

4. Support community based tourism (CBT) projects

There are various community tourism projects across Cambodia where local groups have come together to share what makes their area so special and provide employment opportunities without losing money to the big international players.

Visiting one of these projects gives you the opportunity to visit local communities and/or popular sites in a way that benefits the people who live there whilst simultaneously gaining a deeper insight into Cambodian culture. Some of the projects that we’ve visited and loved are visiting a floating village on Tonle Sap lake, the silk weavers and temples of Banteay Chhmar, and hiking the jungle of the Cardamom Mountains.

5. Be blown away by Phare Cambodian Circus

Going to the circus might not be the first thing that comes to mind when planning your Siem Reap itinerary, but it’s too good to miss. The acrobatic circus combines theatre, music, dance and circus tricks to tell Cambodian stories. We saw ‘Same Same but Different’ which highlighted the different experiences of Cambodians and foreign tourists in a way that had us belly laughing.

All of the performers are taught at a school in Battambang that offers free education to local people. So you’re not only getting to see a spectacular show but you’ll also be supporting the school.

No animals are used during the performance – just insanely talented people. (Katie used to be an acrobatic gymnast so it takes a lot to blow her away!)

6. Chill out at the beach

Some of the most beautiful beaches and perfect blue water you will ever see is in Cambodia. If beach time is essential to your trip plans then Cambodia has you covered. The southern islands offer lots of options, whether you’re looking for parties, relaxation, family time or going off grid.

7. Jungle hikes

The jungles of Cambodia are perfect for wildlife lovers. In Mondulkiri and Banlung you can hike into seriously deep jungle with relative ease and feel like you’re a million miles from civilisation.

How to get around Cambodia

Rent a tuktuk

We spent 3 weeks road-tripping Cambodia in a tuktuk and it was honestly the best decision we’ve ever made. There’s plenty of room for your bags, it’s surprisingly comfy (especially for the Passenger Princess), and easier to drive that you’d expect as *most* the roads are in good condition.

If you’re looking for a unique way to experience the country, renting a tuktuk in Cambodia is it.

The biggest win is total freedom. Most of the best things to do are outside the cities so having your own 3 wheels means you can see much more and don’t have to rely on timetables. We rented ours through TukTuk Rental, a social enterprise that rents vehicles from locals so your adventure supports a good cause and is cost effective for you too.

Read next: How to Rent a Tuktuk in Cambodia (and why our 3 week road trip was the best adventure we’ve had all year)

Bus or minivan

Buses and minivans are cheap and easy as long as you’re going between tourist hubs. Most can be booked from your hotel or online via 12GO Asia (Giant Ibis are great for inter-city travel).

They’re not always the most comfortable, but they’re affordable and easy.

Motorbike or scooter

Fast, flexible, and perfect for confident riders. The rapidly improving road network makes it easy (if a little boring) to drive though some roads are still in pretty rough condition too.

Helmets are a non-negotiable as is proper travel insurance. Accidents here can get serious and medical care isn’t at Thai or Vietnamese standards, especially in rural areas. Many bad accidents result in being airlifted to Bangkok.

On a budget, using a combination of buses for long distances and scooters for day trips is ideal. Scooter rental is relatively cheap, starting at around $10 per day though we’ve not seen many rental shops in rural areas. Just make sure to check the bike first and read reviews.

Read next: Tuktuk vs Scooter: which is best for your Cambodia trip?

Hire a car or driver

You can, of course, hire a car to drive yourself or get a car and private driver.

This is the most expensive option but is infinitely more comfortable – it has air conditioning for a start – and gives you more space. Personally, I’d be very concerned driving a hire car on some of Cambodia’s more interesting roads incase I damaged it.

Hiring a driver is a very expensive way to get around and I don’t think it’s necessary for your whole itinerary. You’d be better paying for private transfers between cities and then tours in each place.

Tuktuks and taxis

Great for short trips if you don’t have your own transport (or want to enjoy a local beer or three). You can book a ride for each journey or for day tours though it’s best to ask your hotel for a recommendation rather than haggling on the streets.

We prefer to use ride-hailing apps to avoid confusion and price hiking. You have 2 choices:

• Grab – pay by cash or card, works without a local SIM, it’s a little more expensive
• PassApp – cheaper but cash only and needs a Cambodian number

In the large cities you’ll be able to use Grab to get car taxis too.

Eating out

Cambodia’s cuisine is a mash of ancient Khmer flavours, French colonial influence, and the ingenuity of those who have recently faced extreme famine.

There is less use of chilis than in the cuisine of Thailand, Vietnam, and Laos with an emphasis on aromatics and balancing sweet/sharp flavours with chilli as a condiment. Curries, soups, stir fried dishes, salads, and rice are staples and you’ll find fish is a more common protein for Cambodian people than meat.

Yes, they do eat a lot of insects. This isn’t a gimmick at markets for tourists. But you don’t have to eat them – they’re popular with locals but it’s unlikely you’ll get some by mistake. They’re worth trying as many are fried with aromatics, chilli, and salt and are just kind of crunchy, salty, spicy snacks. Like bar snacks but extra high protein ones.

Some Cambodian dishes that you should try are:

Amok – Probably the most famous Cambodian dish. Amok is a coconut curry made with fish or snails though you can now get most proteins like chicken or even tofu. Traditionally it’s steamed in a banana leaf, sometimes with an egg to give a mousse-like texture. Roadside restaurants are more likely to serve it closer to a curry fish soup.

Chicken red curry (kari sach moan) – Made using the surprisingly mild local red chilis. This is usually a celebration dish, but is also a mainstay of many restaurant menus. It’s a mild and aromatic curry served with bread or rice.

Fried crab with green pepper (chaa kdam meric kchai) – A specialty of Kep, the fresh crab fried with the world-famous Kampot pepper makes for an aromatic and subtly spicy dish. The fresh, immature green pepper can only be found in Cambodia, though dried versions are exported globally. A must try.

Festivals and celebrations in Cambodia

As a predominantly Buddhist nation, there are many festivals and celebrations following the Buddhist calendar. Plus traditional events around planting and harvesting seasons. These are important to know about when planning your trip as transport will be less frequent and things might close.

The exact dates vary year to year so we’ve not included them in this Cambodia travel guide. Just be aware if you’re looking to travel in the months in which they fall:

Angkor Festival (January)

A huge arts festival held at Angkor Wat that has performers from across SE Asia acting out ancient myths and stories as well as crafts and artwork. A very popular festival that is often attended by the King of Cambodia.

Meak Bochea (February)

Known as the “Festival of Monks” this celebrates the day that 1250 monks spontaneously gathered at Rajagaha Valuwan Vihara, where Lord Buddha had retreated. There are processions of monks with candles which can be quite breathtaking to witness. You need to be near a large monastery to really get an impressive procession though.

Khmer New Year (April)

Those with Khmer roots will usually take 3 days off to head home and celebrate Khmer New Year with family. Not on the scale of Tet in Vietnam, where it feels like the whole country shuts down, but still something to keep in mind if you’re travelling in April.

Water Festival (April)

Dating back to the 12th century, the water festival celebrates the Naval forces role in securing Cambodia. Held in Phnom Penh, it’s now a colourful boat race between competing Naval teams.

Safety concerns

Cambodia is a very safe country to visit with Phnom Penh being the exception (as is true with many large cities in otherwise safe countries).

In Phnom Penh, bag snatching is relatively common including motorbike drivers stealing bags off pedestrians. So always wear your bag across your body and keep it to the inside when traveling in tuktuks. Be careful when walking at night and generally use common sense, and you should be fine. For context, The Global Residence Index has Phnom Penh at the same level of safety as Buenos Aires and Ho Chi Minh City, and a little less safe than Los Angeles.

Outside of the capital, Cambodia is safe for tourists and if you exercise a regular level of precaution then it’s unlikely you’ll encounter problems.

A road traffic accident is the most likely cause of injury, though the roads are far safer than many of its neighbours, even if that’s not a particularly high bar to clear. At the risk of sounding like your mother, always always always wear a helmet if you’re on a motorbike or scooter.

Common scams

Tonle Sap Lake Floating Village: There are many tours to visit a community living on Tonle Sap Lake, but very few of them actually benefit the community in any way. Some demand extra tips and take visitors to a shop to buy supplies for the school children but don’t ever pass those items onto the schools. (The scammers keep the money and sell the same items over and over). To avoid this, book through Kompong Khleang – a verified community tourism group that actually does what it says.

The Royal Palace is closed: A classic scam where tuktuk drivers say that the Royal Palace is closed to visitors then offer to take you on a city tour instead – a much overpriced one. To avoid this, ask your hotel if they know about the opening times/days of the palace, or go and check for yourself.

Damaged bank notes: Cambodia accepts two currencies, USD and riel (KHR). However, USD are only accepted when they are in perfect condition. No marks, no tears, even tiny ones. Some Cambodians may try and pass off poor quality USD to you in change that they know they can’t spend in the country. Not a big problem if you’re heading back to the US, but a problem for everyone else.

The practice of giving change in riel from USD can make short-changing easier, too. Always know the exchange rate (most places use 4000 riel to $1) and check your change. We’ve never encountered this problem, but know other people that have (especially when drinking).

Foreign Exchange/ ATMs

Cash is the main payment method for foreigners and there are plentiful ATMs in all the major cities in Cambodia that dispense both USD and KHR, though they’re less common out in the sticks.

Almost all ATMs charge foreign cards fairly hefty withdrawal fees, usually a flat rate of $4-6 per transaction but some charge a flat rate PLUS a percentage of your withdrawal amount. So it adds up quickly. You’ll usually also get a better rate for withdrawing in USD than in riels.

While the big banks such as Vattanac, Canadia, Acleda, and BRED Bank will mostly accept Visa and Mastercard, it may take a few tries before you find an ATM that does.

If you receive a badly damaged USD banknote from an ATM, you need to immediately go into a branch of the bank to exchange it. You need to prove that it was their ATM you withdrew it from (showing the transaction on your mobile banking is fine) and they’ll exchange it for a usable one. There’s a number you can call on the side of the ATM if you have issues. We had to do this on our first day in Phnom Penh and I was mentally prepared for it to be a problem but they were actually really good about it. Obviously if you’re American, you could just keep it and spend it when you get home.

If possible, bringing USD to Cambodia is the best option. Just make sure the notes are in excellent condition and in denominations no bigger than $20.

Many vendors will struggle to make change from even a $20 and you’ll mostly be given change in Riel (KHR). The maths can be confusing but most places stick to 4000 riel for $1, even though the bank rate is closer to 4100 riel.

FAQs